Feb 5th, 2025

In search of ‘Ansers’!

When exotic visitors fly in all the way across 4500 km from Mongolia, then driving down 180 km from Bangalore is the least I can do to meet them and imprint them on my lens so that I can impress you with them too!!!

Located around 23 km from the city of Mysuru, Hadinaru lake is a freshwater lake near the Kabini River. While it has its share of several species of waterbirds, it attracts many migratory birds too and is specially renowned for being the annual, temporary winter home of the Bar headed Geese (Anser indicus), which laudably fly all the way from Mongolia at altitudes of 27,000 ft over the Himalayas, to spend around 4 months here.

Hadinaru village lies in the Nanjangud taluk of Mysore (Mysuru) district, Karnataka, India.

So join me on this quest with a friend of mine who was kind enough to drive us all the way from Bangalore. I hope you enjoy finding my ‘Ansers’ as much as I did seeking them. And may you be tempted to go in search of your own and experience the adventure in person someday!

Hadinaru village – 

Hadinaru village is located in the Nanjangud taluk of Mysore (Mysuru) district, Karnataka, India.

Hadinaru means 16 in Kannada and the ‘trivia hungry’ me was very curious to know the reason behind the name. However, I was unable to find any information online. Not being someone to easily give up, I persevered until I found the right person who had enough data to satisfy me.

Rama is one of the owners of the tiny Rama Lakshmana eatery where we had our breakfast in Hadinaru (the other owner is his brother, named Lakshmana of course!)

Rama told me that legend has it that this place was initially called Yadunadu, being the place of origin of the Mysore (Mysuru) Wodeyars, the royal family of Mysore (Mysuru) which belongs to the Yaduvansh lineage. Over time, the name Yadunadu was diluted to Hadunadu and eventually to Hadinaru. So as we learn, the place has nothing to do with the number sixteen.

I have narrated this information as received and am open to corrections or further details  if any.

Rama also told me that there was book written on the Hadinaru village called Ithihasa Shrustisida Putta Halli Hadinaaru which means – the History created by the small village of Hadinaru. This Kannada book is written by Dr P.V. Nanjaraj Urs and is available online. 

Hadinaru lake is a large waterbody that lies in between the Hadinaru and Moodahalli villages.

Hadinaru Lake, layout and vantage points – 

My friend and I left Bangalore at 4 am and it took nearly 3 hours to cover the 165 km distance. The highway is excellent all the way and only the final stretch is a couple of kilometers of dirt track which is quite motorable. In the early hours of pre dawn we also spotted a few birds on this path, which included among others, grey hornbills, coucals, shrikes, doves and a peafowl contingent who were camera shy 😏

The lake is considerably large (I am unable to find data on the exact size) and Google maps is not exactly helpful either when it comes to guiding people like us whose pursuits are very specific. So initially the navigation took us to a point which we later realized was the far end (read wrong end) of the lake. This part was marshy and overgrown and there seemed no likelihood of spotting the innumerable birds we had assumed we would see.

After a quick enquiry with some local villagers (the time trusted method before Google was born), we were redirected to the proper location. The path correction took us over a  kilometer of motorable fields, which the car hesitantly but successfully conquered. Our shortcut also pleasantly rewarded us with sights of Red-naped Ibises enjoying the fields but equally took us aback with views of human beings relieving themselves alongside! Well we were Relieved for sure, to finally get onto the main road.

The main part of the lake runs alongside a proper road and has a few viewpoints which include a set of steps to access the raised lake bund, a big park and another set of steps to descend down to the water. You will learn in more detail as you read along. Also, the picture below will help you understand better.

The Lake Bund –

This is a small elevated stretch alongside the portion of the lake, adjacent to the road. It is accessible by a flight of stairs, at the head of which a grand old tree stands, playing host to several birds like kingfishers, chestnut tailed starlings, drongos etc, who dart around playfully in its foliage. The White breasted Kingfishers use their perch as vantage points from where they can spot fish and dive in to snatch their prey.

The Lake park –

Further down along the road is a large rectangular park, the entrance to which is through a large gate. To the left of the gate is a small temple called the Kerethadi Kempamma Devasthana and to the right there are steps descending into the lake.

The park has a paved track all around and benches to sit and view the lake. These seats are maintained to some extent though there are a few broken ones too. However, the climber plants growing on the mesh border between the park and the lake reduce the visibility to an extent. The mesh also gets in the way of the camera lens, so photography is not ideal from within the park. It is better to go down the steps near the park entrance or to climb onto the bund on the main side, to get clearer pictures.

The wire mesh also runs alongside a part of the main road, hampering the visibility of the water and getting in the way of the camera lens but there are a few clear patches where the view is minimally restricted.

Our self appointed guide – 

It is very convenient especially for first time visitors like us to have a local source of knowledge and information. This helps to save time and get optimal results too.

We reached around 7 am, even though we had heard that the geese would appear on the lake at their own pace only after 9.30 am. Hence we were prepared for a long wait till the objects of our fascination arrived. In the interim, we explored the place for a while, right from the park to the steps to the view from the bund.

While we were trying to figure out where exactly we might spot the geese, we were suddenly approached by a friendly local villager who introduced himself as Swamy and enthusiastically and voluntarily offered to be our guide. Claiming to know all about the patterns and timings and favorite locations of the Bar-headed geese and the best vantage points to get optimal views and shots of them, he led the way to his ‘secret’ spot which was a narrow path between the lake fence and the main road.

Unfortunately though it was the best spot in the circumstances, the geese which had by now started landing on the lake, were still too far away to be photographed meaningfully. But then, with a bit of going hither and thither and playing with our emotions, the geese finally took pity on us and decided to swim closer to the shore where I was eagerly waiting to get as clear a shot as possible.

There were not as many of them as we had expected though because we seemed to have visited when the season was towards its fag end. Apparently they were much larger in number in the weeks before our visit and had now dwindled down into the handful that you see in my pictures. But I was definitely grateful that I did not have to use the phrase Wild Goose Chase (There! I said it :-D) which was my back-up caption!

My trophies – 

The Bar headed goose is a grey goose with 2 distinct black bars smeared across its white head. Its orange beak and orange legs add a splash of brightness to the otherwise sedate canvas of its body.

Spotting these geese was so exciting that it naturally made me want to break out into song and croon – Bar Bar dekho, hazaar bar dekho!

I have definitely set the Bar low for my jokes today, so I will continue with my tale and stop torturing you now😁

But before proceeding further with more details, let me first flaunt the rewards of my labor and lens. My 250 mm inadequate lens valiantly tries its best, so keep that in mind in case you tend to get judgmental 😉

Birds of Hadinaru Lake –

The migratory Bar Headed geese are no doubt the seasonal stars of the show here but the lake also has many other species to attract birders through the year. Some of the birds found here are the Common coot, Kingfishers, Chestnut tailed starlings, Brahminy kites, Black drongos, Little grebe, Purple moorhen, Herons, Cormorants, Egrets, Cotton Pygmy Goose, Spot-Billed duck, Painted stork, Ibis, Northern shoveler and many more.

Some random clicks below –

A short video – 

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What is available and what you should carry –

The locality is not all that developed and there is not much available in terms of food or even toilet facilities. There are a few small eateries but it is preferable to carry one’s own food and drink. And answering nature’s call takes on a literal meaning, as that is exactly where you will be answering it 😏If you have a strong bladder, you could wait till you eventually get back onto the highway and hope for a petrol bunk or wayside hotel before you achieve relief!

Apart from the food, some of the items you could carry are caps, sunglasses, binoculars, folding chairs/stools, camera and its associated paraphernalia etc.

Early mornings are quite cold in winters, so equip yourself accordingly. Layering your clothing may be a good idea because it gets hotter as the day goes by. Do not wear bright colored clothing but go with neutral colors that will suit the natural surroundings.

Do not strew food around or litter. Please bring your trash back. It was sickening on so many levels to see the junk in the water. It is definitely not good for the health of the birds.

Do not make loud noises or create any commotion while watching the birds. Swamy told us that the increasing disturbance from the people visiting the place, is putting off the birds who now no longer freely swim towards the shore as in the past.

Where to eat – 

The Hadinaru village is slightly ahead after the lake and as mentioned in the beginning, we had breakfast at a small eatery there called Hotel Rama Lakshmana which Swamy recommended, before heading back to Bangalore. This belongs to 2 brothers Rama and Lakshmana and is quite a decent place with palatable food which was reasonably hygienic too. We had a plate of Set dosas which were very filling and economically priced. You can try this place if ever you go there.

One of the brothers chatted with us, proudly pointing to 2 large pictures hanging on opposite walls, framing the Hadinaru village and the lake.

Of course one can also head to Mysuru city with its umpteen restaurants for a good meal. One of my favorite places there is the Kumbakonam cafe!

Things to do in the Surroundings – 

Visit the nearby local temples, namely the Kerethadi Kempamma Devasthana and the Hadinaru Mole Mahadeshwara Temple.

Also, the nearby Kabini river and of course Mysuru city are places worth visiting in the surroundings.

I was also informed that there were quite a few birds in the flatlands/fields which are in the vicinity of the nearby Immavu industrial estate which is around 10 km from Hadinaru. These are best sighted at dawn but I did not have the time on this trip.

Best Time to Visit –

While the lake is home to many of the resident birds all year round, the migratory visitors appear mostly from November to February, so plan accordingly.

Best time of the day to see the geese – Though the lake is open 24/7,  the geese appear every morning on the lake only after 9.30 am and stay active for a couple of hours, splashing, swimming, flying and generally frolicking around. We were told that they then quietly rest on the waters until around 4 pm in the evening, after which they reactivate for a while before flying off around 5.30 pm to roost in the surrounding fields at night. They also get their sustenance from the grains in fields.

Their droppings also serve as manure, so it is sort of a give and take relationship they have with the local farmers, from whom they are in no danger.

Phone and internet connectivity –

It is commendable that signals were as good, if not better than in the city. Airtel, Jio etc seemed to work fine in our rural surroundings.

Getting there – 

 

There are good roads from Mysore (Mysuru), Bangalore etc and it is most convenient to come by private car from these cities though I was told that there also was public transport by bus.

We left Bangalore at 4 am and it took nearly 3 hours to cover the 165 km distance.

As mentioned earlier, please note that google maps directed us to the other end of the lake which was marshy and not very accessible. So please go by the markings on the map that I have shown above. It might make more sense to use ‘Kerethadi Kempamma Devasthana Hadinaru Karnataka’, as the Google destination (marked as Point 3 on my above map)

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Please Note –

This was a personal trip and my narration is based on the inputs I received from various sources as well as my own experiences.

For more pictures see My Facebook – Hadinaru Lake

Also catch me on My Facebook, My Facebook page, My Twitter and My Instagram

Before venturing, please check what birds have been recently sighted. There are a few websites like eBird which provide regional and current statistics.

I would really appreciate your feedback and comments in the comment box below.

Feb 5th, 2025