Magnificence in stone … an apt way indeed, to express the gorgeousness of Hoysala temples of Karnataka. While the 3 temples at Belur, Halebidu and Somanathapura which are also recognized as UNESCO World Heritage sites, definitely are the most famous of these, one also cannot discount the numerous others which are remarkable too, despite being smaller and not as much in the limelight.

One such place that I recently had the pleasure of visiting, is the Saumyakeshava temple at Nagamangala town in the Mandya district of Karnataka, India.

On an online hunt for bird-friendly lakes to visit with my bird photographer friends, I came upon the Hirikere lake in Nagamangala. Further exploration via Google, led me serendipitously to the almost adjacent temple which even in its virtual avatar, caught my fancy and ironically as you will see, became the main focus of my trip, with the lake getting just a cursory visit and being bookmarked for another day for a more thorough visit.

The Saumyakeshava temple is yet another exemplification (albeit a smaller version) of the ornate and intricate unique South Indian style architecture developed under the patronage of the rulers of the Hoysala empire of the 10th to the 14th century era.

So step into its sacred precincts with me and be prepared to be charmed by this beauty in stone.

Nagamangala town, Mandya district – 

Nagamangala is a taluk which is situated around 50 km from the district headquarters of Mandya. It translates to Town of snakes, probably due to the significance of snakes in its religious history.

During the rule of Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana, Nagamangala became an important center of Vaishnava faith. There are several temples in this town even today.

Sri Saumyakeshava Temple –

This Hindu temple was constructed in the 12th century. It is also spelt as Sauymakesava or Soumyakeshava.

This monument is under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

The temple was patronized by multiple dynasties over the centuries and some of the structures were built over time by successive rulers. Hence it also exhibits influences of other architecture like the Nagara style which is used in North India’s classical Hindu temples.

The temple complex – 

This is a brief glimpse of the various elements that constitute the complex.

The entrance tower which is called the Gopuram, is 7 storeys tall and is embellished with the forms of various Hindu gods and goddesses. The entry to the premises is under this tower and through a massive doorway which is carved with more figurines.

The main temple is enclosed on all sides by a walled boundary.

The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu also called Saumyakeshava, which means a mild and gentle Keshava. Keshava is a popular name used for Krishna, who is an avatar of Vishnu.

True to Hoysala architecture, the temple stands mounted on a platform (jagati) constructed in soap stone. The 4 ft high jagati here, is designed like a staggered rectangle in the front and tapers into a star shape of sorts at the rear. On either side of the main temple are 2 long and pillared corridors.

There is also an ancient well at the back.

There are 3 shrines (called trikuta) with presiding deities Saumyakeshava,  Lakshminarasimha and Venugopala. These are housed within the main hall (called Navaranga) which is a pillared space. Photography is prohibited within this sanctum.

There is a pavilion inside this hall called the Bhuvaneshwari mandapa whose roof is very significant. Featuring a serpent (naga) tightly coiled around a protruding conch that is resting on an open lotus flower, this structure is a big attraction in this temple.

A person inside the hall (who said he was a guide), makes sure that every visitor listens to the description and views the details. He just gave us a quick narration of the Naga Mandala inside the sanctum but nothing else about the rest of the temple. He does ask for some money after the narration.

A short Video glimpse of the place –

https://www.instagram.com/p/DSfW5gaCaC3/

What is available and what you should carry –

The temple lies within a bustling town and not in some remote location so there are a sufficient number of shops and other options to cater to ones basic needs. Also, the Hassan highway is just 20 km away and there are many restaurant options on this route.

If you are going to visit the nearby Hirikere lake for birding (as I had planned), some of the items you would need are comfortable shoes, caps, sunglasses, sunscreen, binoculars, camera, water, snacks etc.

Remember that this is a place of worship, so wear appropriate clothing. There are no specified dress codes however.

Carry your own bags for disposing waste if any because it is important to travel responsibly without littering or damaging the environment in any way.

There was a sign pointing to a washroom but I did not check out the place since I preferred using the rest rooms at the highway eateries.

Best season to Visit – 

The temple is open throughout the year. Summers can get really hot and some people may find it difficult to walk barefoot on the hot stone ground in the temple premises. Socks can be used to mitigate the burning of the feet.

Timings –

The temple is open from 7 am – 12 pm and 5 pm – 9 pm everyday.

Where to eat – 

As mentioned, the Hassan highway is just 20 km away and there are many restaurant options on this route. We had our breakfast at Hotel Dhruvathare enroute from Bangalore and on the way back we had lunch at Hotel Mayura, Bellur Cross.

I suppose there are suitable eateries in the temple vicinity too but I did not research them.

Where to stay – 

Since this is a day trip from Mysuru or Bangalore, it would make sense to stay in one of these cities and travel from there by road to Nagamangala.

Phone and internet connectivity –

Phone signals were good throughout. Airtel, Jio etc seemed to work fine.

Things to do in the Surroundings –

As mentioned earlier, Kolar district is home to several famous temples.

Also, if you are interested in bird photography like me, then the Hirikere lake is said to be a good place to visit. I however, arrived too late in the day and that was probably why I barely saw any birds.

My visit to the temple was initially actually a by product of my desire to visit the lake but it ended up being the main attraction on this trip. Maybe some other time I might plan an early morning visit to the lake and hope for better luck.

However, in the attempt to get a glimpse of the lake whose entrance is barely 350 ft from the temple, I discovered another smaller temple which seemed to be quite ancient too. I was told that it was the Sri Kalyana Venkataramana Swamy temple but I could not get any more details. The place seemed to be closed but the yard was accessible. There was a huge banyan tree right in front of the entrance and a large temple tank on the right side of the wall. The Hirikere lake lies behind this place across a raised bund which is accessible from the other side of the tank.

Of course I always manage to score some fresh, local vegetables and fruits wherever I go, so on the way back at a place called Marur handpost, I found a market stretching for nearly 300 metes alongside the highway where several vendors were selling a wide variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, many of them supposedly locally grown. Well what better way to end an adventure than load up the car with an insane amount of fresh produce, right?

Marur handpost is halfway between Nagamangala and Bangalore (around 60 km/ 1 hour) from both sides. Though the market is active everyday, on Sundays they have the weekly Santhey (farmer’s market) with many more vendors present.

Additional information – 

There is ample parking in the temple compound.

There is also a garden adjacent to the wall called Shri Ramanuja Udyavana.

Getting there – 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/swXpwHCGDSSf9Vn67

Nagamangala is located around 68 km from Mysore and 120 km from Bangalore. The nearest domestic airport is Mysore and international airport is at Bangalore. There is public transport by way of buses.

The nearest local railway station is B.G. Nagar Railway Station, 17 km away. For last mile connectivity, one can use autorickshaws or taxis.   

The most convenient way to get here from Mysuru or Bangalore is by private vehicle or taxi.

From Bangalore, we came via the Hassan Mangalore highway and turned left before reaching Bellur cross. From the highway, the temple is around 20 km. The trip took 2 hours. The road is excellent throughout. 

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Please Note –

This was a personal trip and my narration is based on the inputs I received from various sources as well as my own experiences.

For more pictures see My Facebook – Sri Saumyakeshava Temple (coming soon)

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Dec 7th, 2025