The Champaner and Pavagadh Archaeological Park region is located in the Panchmahal district of Gujarat, India.

Apart from having relics that date back to prehistoric ages, Champaner which is situated at the foot of the Pavagadh hills, was also a flourishing region during the 8th century under the Chavda dynasty. Its claim to fame also stems from the fact that it was the capital of the Gujarat Sultanate under Mahmud Begada in the 15th century and lost its glory a century later after being ravaged by the Mughal Emperor Humayun.

Today, this 3000 acre site contains vestiges of its history and heritage in the form of several monuments and has been the first location in Gujarat to receive the UNESCO World Heritage tag in 2004.

This is a popular tourist site as well as a pilgrimage destination where thousands of people throng all year round.

My trip was organized by my hosts at Jambughoda Palace, A Home for Nature Lovers. They arrange tours to various places of interest around their palace.

Champaner-Pavagadh as seen across Vada Talav lake

Points of interest in Champaner and Pavagadh include several monuments, forts, palaces, gates, arches, granaries, tombs, mosques, temples, water bodies, step wells etc … a tapestry of heritage and culture that has been woven together by its long and diverse history.

One can spend from a few hours to a couple of days, depending on the level of detail that one wants to explore the place.

I had only half a day at my disposal and hence I focused only on some of the prominent  locations.

Pavagadh –

The Pavagadh hill is a part of the UNESCO site and rises to a height of 800 meters above the plains. The route uphill is studded with remains of old fortresses, granaries, gates, water bodies and Jain temples and at the summit lies the famous Kalikamata/Maha Kali temple. This temple is considered as one of the Shakthi Peetas where the toe of goddess had fallen.

A well laid out 4 lane road leads uphill to a plateau called Machi. The 5 km distance takes around 15 min due to the gradient.

En route, one can stop at the Saath Kaman, which were the 7 arches of the old fort on the hill. Currently only 5 arches remain.

From here one can also get a panoramic view of the Champaner fort in the plains if the day is not hazy. As you can see, I had no such luck 😀

This place is also the playground for several Langurs who frolic merrily.

From Machi one can avail of the 6 minute cable car ride across the ravine. After alighting from the cable car, there is another climb to the Mahakali temple whose deity is said to be very powerful and hence attracts thousands of pilgrims everyday. While there is a year round crowd, the peak season is during Navaratri (the pre Dusshera days) when the crowds throng in lakhs.

Many pilgrims choose to climb all the way by foot from the bottom of the hill or even from Machi and one can see the trail from the cable car as it zooms above.

Donkeys are used to carry the loads of  pooja supplies like coconuts, flowers and other such items and it was quite an interesting sight for me, since these animals are rarely seen in Bangalore.

Share cabs/jeeps are also available to the public and they are found parked at various locations.

The cable car ride is well organised with railings to ensure queues. A ticket has to be purchased, after which there is an orderly queue system to the cars.

On holidays and festival days there can even be a 2-3 hour long queue and considering the year round humidity and heat, it can be quite a traumatic experience. We chose a Monday morning a few days before the start of the Navaratri season and we probably experienced the most optimal time waiting time of barely 5-10 minutes.

The quick 6 minute ‘flight’ over the valley is an interesting one and while it is difficult to manoeuvre the camera, one can still obtain a few good pictures through the small open window. The ravine, the walking trail, the ancient granary and other sights can be viewed from the cable car.

On the other side of the hill there is a lake, a Jain derasar (temple) and rows of shops that flank the path that eventually leads to the Maha Kali temple. The only way to get there is by foot. The shops sell food, water and pooja items.

I did not climb right up to the temple for lack of time and also because I was dying in the heat 😀 but I managed to click pictures from below.

There are toilets, though not in the best of ‘health’ and also plenty of stalls selling food and water.

Pavagadh is also a popular picnic spot for its scenic location and also offers climbing and trekking opportunities.

Champaner – 

Lying on the plains at the base of Pavagadh hill, is the ancient town of Champaner. There are several locations and monuments of interest here, the most prominent and intact one being the Jami Masjid which was built in 1513 by Sultan Mahmud Begada.

The Jami masjid is a gorgeous monument and there are usually guides who hang around and offer their services. It is a good idea to to go with them because they also know the best locations for photography and are generally quite friendly and helpful.

There also is information inscribed near the entrance along with a Braille version.

The masjid architecture is a blend of hindu and muslim styles with jharokas, lattices, domes, minarets and pillars.

There are 11 domes, around 170 pillars, 2 minarets.

The are several jaali (lattice) panels in various walls and each of the several sections in a panel are said to be of a unique pattern.

There is a large well in the premises and several birds can be spotted on the sprawling lawns. Peacocks call stridently but I was told that they are hardly visible.

The entrance fee to the masjid is Rs 10/ and camera is not charged.

The guide book on Champaner-Pavagadh, published by the Archaeological Survey of India is available at the entrance for Rs 100/- and is quite informative.

The Nagina Masjid, Kevada Masjid, Shahar ki Masjid and Lila Gumbaz ki Masjid are the other mosques that have survived but I did not have the time to visit them.

However, as we eventually drove towards Halol town, my partiality towards stepwells made me stop by a beautiful helical one set amidst surprisingly well maintained gardens.

Sakar Khan dargah is also located along the main road and this is the largest tomb in Champaner.

Best time to visit –

Winters are obviously the best time in Gujarat and late October to early March has good weather. The rest of the year is hot/humid. However, pilgrims who visit for religious purposes arrive all year through and it is amazing to note that many of them are undeterred by the harsh temperatures and even climb up the hill in peak summer.

If one has a choice, then winters would be the most comfortable.

During certain festivals like Navaratri there is a huge inflow of visitors and likewise weekends and general holidays are far more crowded than regular weekdays.

One can base their plans accordingly.

What you should carry –

A pair of sturdy walking shoes, an umbrella/raincoat during monsoons and a cap as protection from the harsh sun. Food and water is available on sale in street side stalls.

Where to stay –

There are not many options in the vicinity of Champaner apart from small hotels and Jain dharmashalas. The Jambughoda Palace Heritage stay 25 km away, is the nearest most comfortable place to stay. The advantage is that the hosts curate tours to Champaner-Pavagadh and also to several other surrounding places of interest.

Getting there –

Champaner lies in the district of Panchmahal which adjoins the district of Vadodara. The nearest major city is Vadodara city 45 which is well connected by all modes of transport.

Air – Vadodara airport operates a limited number of flights and is well connected to important cities like Ahmedabad and Mumbai. There is one direct flight from Bangalore which I flew on.

Rail – Vadodara is an important rail junction on the Western railway and is connected to many major cities.

Bus – Likewise there are good bus services to several towns and cities.

Cabs/private cars are the most convenient means of transport from Vadodara to Champaner and the journey takes around 1 hour.  The roads are excellent and the landscape is scenic.Do not miss the photo op at the lake called Vada Talaav that lies at the foothills of the Pavagadh hills.

Gujarat state transport buses also ply on the route.

Within the Champaner region, the means of transport is cab, private vehicle, share cab or non metered autorickshaws.

For more pictures see My Facebook, Champaner-Pavagadh 1 and Champaner-Pavagadh1 2. Also catch me on My Facebook, My Facebook page, My Twitter and My Instagram

Please Note – My trip was hosted by Jambughoda Palace and details are available on the post. The narrative is based on the inputs that I received from various sources, as well as my own experiences.

Sep 23rd, 2019