Kenya Day – 2
Continued from Kenya – Day 1
June 2nd, 2010
Day 2 had us getting up at 6.30 am. It took a few muscles and a miraculous amount of will power to leave the bed. Daylight permitted us the view of the swimming pool and garden and also the adjacent road. Verdant and pleasing to the eye.
Breakfast was at the hotel so we walked down to the restaurant, noticing that all the landings and the walls were decorated with paintings of tribes and adorned by masks, animal skins and all such items of local decor. Even the restaurant had its walls full of African paintings and other wall adornments. The interiors of all hotels I saw, were very high on aesthetics especially since they use all local art . Every hotel has its own gift shop too with the prices way higher than outside.
Breakfast was not bad at all. The usual spread, actually better than the usual spread. The breads, the meats, the fruit, the cereals, the juices and the pastries … everything that I do not want to see at 7.30 am 🙂
Though it was too early for us to eat, we knew our next meal was going to be at 1 pm, so we did what best we could.
A couple of pictures of the restaurant and we were off to the lobby where Newton, on time every time, was waiting for us. A quick loading of our bags and off to the Masai Mara it was. Sharp 8 AM … yeah we Indians keep great time, Newton.
The distance of 270 kms was estimated to last a good 5 hrs with 2 stops in between. With no stops it would probably take less than 4 hrs. There are also 40 min flights from Nairobi’s Wilson airport to airstrips in the Masai Mara but our mode of transport was by road. Everything is organised so well and the tourist has to just sit back and be led. We were given all the information about distances and times and pee stops in advance and hence could control our water intake accordingly. It is cold there honey and a girl’s gotta go when a girl’s gotta go 🙂
In India, 270 kms is the distance from Bangalore to Chikmagalur, where we often go on holidays. I wished we had such an organised method of transporting our tourists or guests or even ourselves. Sigh, most of my time is spent hoping I will not need a washroom stop, the absence of which causes me to restrict my fluid consumption a good couple of days before the travel!!!
Our first stop at 8.30 am was at the Great Rift Valley view point and great indeed is the Rift valley. A natural formation that is a huge fissure 9,600 kms (6000 miles) long extending from Israel in the North to Mozambique in the South and slicing through Kenya. Formed ages ago due to subterranean activity in the earth that gave rise volcanic eruptions, even today it is a bed for about 30 active and semi active volcanoes and several hot springs. Parts of it are also made up of fertile land and many alkaline lakes that are home to varieties of birds that come to feed on the fish and algae that grow well in such water.
The view from the edge of the escarpment where we stood, was spectacular. The verdant valley stretched below us, dotted with small land formations/hillocks. The lady from the gift shop was quick to approach us and point out the various landmarks.To the far right was a hillock that we saw once more from the ‘other side’ after having travelled a few more kms later.
Carvings were on sale, made from volcanic stone depicting the view from this point including the small mountains and elephants that lived in the area. These were unique to this gift shop and I did not find them elsewhere again, as I looked for them in desperation, having failed to realize their worth earlier.
This spot was also our washroom stop and since the next one was 2 hours away, we were advised to make a wise decision and we did.
I know the ladies will want more information here, so let me tell you that the washrooms are usually at the back of the gift shops and though they appear to be little shacks and do not have aesthetically appealing exteriors, they are nevertheless neat, dry and clean. Complete with toilet paper and a handwash, they serve the purpose satisfactorily and are far better than what one can expect of a public washroom in India (do we have any ?).
A few photographs of the stunning valley and it was back to the road again at 8.45 am. A few kms down the road and a turn and we were looking at the ‘other side of the mountain’. Another gift shop was spotted from the van and I begged Newton to stop. Well he did but not without reminding us that we had a long way to go.
The guides are particular about making good time and rightly so. Any delay will cause disruptions in hotel schedules, meal times and subsequent activities.
Promising that I would not ask again, I quickly ducked into the shop to take a look around. After a couple of shops one realizes that almost everyone has similar items to sell. That however did not prevent me from appreciating what is on display and I never failed to be impressed, however many times I went through the routine. This of course was many many times, much to the irritation of you know who, you know who and you know who 🙂
This stop was also where we spotted several weaver bird nests in the surrounding trees. The brightly colored birds however, were too fast for us, darting in and out of their homes so rapidly, that we were able to capture only their homes on camera.
From now on it was a two hour drive to our next stop, the town of Narok, as we sped down a road that was very good indeed and a pleasure to travel on. Going past landscapes dotted with grazing zebras, giraffes, impala, wildebeest and a jackal or two, much to our excitement. The scenery reminded me at times of Chikmagalur, of course with its goats, dogs and cattle replacing the aforementioned exotic animals 🙂
Many trees passed us by on either side of the road, some of them being the Umbrella acacia, so named because its curved canopy resembles an umbrella, the Yellow bark acacia which is the food of the giraffes and bears the same color as the animal, the Candelabra euphorbia, a beautiful but poisonous tree that fascinated me by its appearance, with vertical, cactus like branches that look like candelabra. We tried unsuccessfully to take pictures from a speeding vehicle, resulting in many of our photos looking like the ‘incredible blur’ … is there a creature like that ? Of course we got our rightful quota when we eventually stopped.
Newton ever the informative guide, carried excellent books on the flora and fauna of the region and did not hesitate to open them whenever we asked for details.
We were at half an hour to stop no. 2. We had completed almost half our journey and sadly all of our quota of good road!!!
Pot holes bumped us gently, yes only gently for the rest of the way, our TLC (Toyota Land Cruiser) taking care of us with TLC (Tender Loving Care), until we came to a halt at Narok Town. Another ‘pot’ stop, another gift shop to gape at and it was 11 am.
Newton now informed us that we had only an hour’s drive left to our camp but we had an option of visiting a true blue (or should I say red ?) Masai village on the way. The Masai are a very shy tribe and do not allow outsiders to visit or photograph them or their village/homes. However, tourists who are willing to pay a fee are not just allowed to do the above but are also guided by one of the tribe members on a tour of their village, with a short narration of their customs and description of their homes and lifestyle.
Besides that, the men perform a traditional dance and the women sing a few songs for the entertainment and and education of the visitor. This fee we were informed, is a minimum of US $20 per head and is used by the chief of the village for the general development of the tribe.
Since we had come this far and since we thought it would be a worthwhile experience, we agreed to the ‘optional’ detour and with this development in our schedule, we hit the road again. Hitting the road took on a whole new meaning 15 mins later and not even our TLC’s TLC could spare us the Masai Massage as Newton cheerfully named this battering. Going off the main road onto a stretch of dirt track that bounced us for the next 45 min of our travel … and when I say bounced, I understate.
We bounced in the air,
On the ground we bumped,
We flew off the seats,
And back we thumped
(and right out of my head,
the poetry jumped)
An exercise not for the faint of heart or weak of back or filled of uterus. Sorry, have to go with the flow 🙂
Well there was nothing we could do but hang on for dear life and hope that Ks (weak) back would too. It would be necessary to mention here that the track is rather dusty and passing vehicles only serve to stir up more dust, so it would be wise to close all windows including the driver’s, to prevent getting dirt all over the insides of the van. Dirt that we had managed to avoid on the relatively dust free journey so far. Despite the rough ride, Newton managed to point out to us Thompson’s gazelles, grey crowned cranes, guinea fowl and more.
An interesting tree that we found here was the Whistling Thorn Acacia, a short bushy variety of acacia that has thorns growing out of bulbs. Holes in the bulbs are created by ants that inhabit them and when the wind blows, it whistles through these tiny holes. Well after this story we had to take a picture of this tree and the stop gave our aching bones a welcome respite.
Well we finally arrived at our destination 12.15 pm, miraculously in one piece.
There are several Masai villages on the way and the guide I guess, has his choice earmarked. The one we were taken to visit was pretty close to the gates of the Masai Mara reserve. We were introduced to Kennedy of the Masai tribe who was our guide for the next 45 mins. Greeting us with a “sopa” which is the equivalent of jambo (hello) he was ready to begin and we were ready for our lesson. Sitting in a shack outside the village during the introduction, Ken explained about the dance we were about to witness. The men perform a dance with no instruments other than a horn and all other music produced from deep inside their throats, guttural, grunting sounds accompanied by high pitched choruses. The beads that they wear create an additional jingling.
The dance ends with a jumping competition, to display their strength and stamina as warriors and the one who jumps the highest is the most eligible to marry. He then has to ask for the bride’s hand by producing a lion’s mane/head, a lion that he has to spear all by himself. Nowadays, the killing being illegal, existing manes are procured in exchange for cows and thus the proposal fructifys. At the end of the dance we were asked to join them and K was the first one to rush in to join the performance. Of course he was no match for the jumpers so I really had no cause to be apprehensive (or not 🙂
Of course not to be left out v2 and I joined too but we were clearly underage and of the wrong gender respectively, so we did not figure either 🙂
After this we were invited to enter the village through a narrow opening in the fence of shrubs that encircled it. The village is circular with the huts all around and a vast open space in the center. Here we had the lovely ladies stand in a row and sing melodiously for us, with Ken exhorting them to continue on for a good 5 mins and an equal number of songs.
An entry into a home was promised and there we went, ducking down to squeeze through the tiny entrance into the pitch dark confines of the hut. Taking a little time to get our eyes accustomed to the lack of light and helped by the fire in the ‘kitchen’ inside, we settled down on … what ? I dont remember what we sat on but it was sufficiently comfortable. Ken began by describing the place. A small passage at the entrance that opened out into a hall cum dining cum kitchen , all in a space of about 7 x 7 ft or maybe less. 2 bedrooms on either side, one for the elders and one for the kids. A small chimney on the wall in front of us to help out the smoke and a pot of ‘something’ boiling on the fire at our feet. A tiny storage space in the wall where dry gourds were kept and used as containers for the blood and milk of the cow, which was their drink. A small black hen crouched in the corner as still as its surroundings. While the lesson was interesting, the classroom was claustrophobic, at least for us and after a short while we were out again, this time to learn ‘how fire was made’. Ken and his friends brought 2 sticks (I forget what wood he mentioned) and placing one into a hole in the other, they rubbed and rubbed until there was smoke and subsequently a tiny fire. Yeah I know, there is no smoke without fire 🙂
V2 was given a chance to try his hand(s), Ken probably giving him a chance to redeem himself after his dismal performance at the jumping dance 🙂
After that we had a little speech on their customs and history and current status/progress. Looking K straight in the eye (and did I detect a glint there or maybe a look of triumph? 🙂 he told us that the Masai men were polygamous. One man could have multiple wives. The wives however would remain monogamous. See women have always been smarter right from the days of yore.
The tribes raise cattle as their main profession and grow their own food.
Though they have strived to maintain their traditions, customs and rituals in the face of progress, nowadays they are open to sending their children to schools (government funded) and learning English and their chiefs even deign to possess cell phones and pretty amazing they look with them too 🙂
A photograph in the Msafiri (meaning Musafir/traveller) , the inflight magazine on KQ, has an article on telecommunications in Kenya, the piece being unfortunately in french but the accompanying photograph of the stunning Masai warrior with a phone in his hand is just so classy !!!
I would like to interrupt here to say that cell phone coverage is excellent and there is connectivity all over the plains. The tall communication towers, towering on the distant hills, no doubt responsible for this facility.
The Masai is a snazzy dresser. Wearing bright red and adorned with vast panels of bead necklaces and their bracelets and belts, they make a colorful sight. Red I heard is their choice since it symbolizes power but I thought it was a rather effective way for them to spot each other on the plains ?
A friend of mine who had visited the Masai on a vacation, had warned me that one of their customs was to take wives in exchange for something of equal value or at least what they considered a fair value. I have a strong suspicion that K had been willing to fork over the $80 for this detour in the hope that this information was authentic 🙂
However, when there was no offer forthcoming, a distinctly impatient K decided to broach the subject himself and casually asked Ken if what he had heard was indeed true. Smelling a deal Ken immediately nodded agreement and without much ado offered a paltry sum of 20 cows in exchange for me. An indignant look and a plaintive ‘Kennedy’ from me and he wisely added 20 blankets to the deal. But K who was probably hoping in terms of 20 Masai mamas, was not impressed and there was no signing and sealing done that day 🙂
Our educational tour having come to an end, we were finally taken to the ‘back gate’ of the village which led to another smaller circle of land with stalls all around the periphery. It is here that the villagers exhibit their wares, a similar mix of all the curios that we had seen earlier. A quaint stand made of a single piece of wood but opening out into 3 intertwined parts, caught K’s fancy and a bargain was struck. A lion’s tooth on a beaded chain however, did not make it across the transaction. Doubts regarding its authenticity and the fact that they were charging us the price of a whole lion for it, being deterrents 🙂
We did leave it behind with a lot of regrets though, regrets being the order of the day, as we had to leave the village and head to our eventual destination, the Sarova Mara Camp in the Masai Mara National Reserve. The gates of the Reserve were just 10 mins away and as Newton stopped to pay the fee, we were besieged on all sides by hordes of Masai women, thrusting their curios into every window with a cacophony of prices being called out. Too confused to think straight, I barely managed to realize that their prices were way lower than the ones I had heard before and I could really get some good bargains here. However Newton had returned and the hungry hordes inside the car would have eaten me alive had I suggested tarrying further to attend to something as abhorrent as shopping.
So we continued on to our hotel/camp, the beautiful Sarova Mara which was barely 10 mins away. We had earlier been booked in the Sentrim Mara and for some inexplicable reason the travel agent had us bumped up to the Sarova Mara and a wonderful upgradation it was, being known to be a far better place to stay and much closer to the entrance of the reserve. We entered the gates that said ‘Karibu, Sarova Mara Game Camp’ and drove on to the hotel entrance.
At the hotel we were greeted by a tall, handsome Masai youth, bearing a tray of hot towels that we gratefully used. Onto a bridge over the ‘moat’ and into the reception area, to our refreshing welcome drink of passion fruit juice. The luggage followed us and as we waited to be led to our tents we glanced around to view our beautiful surroundings, done up in the same tasteful and aesthetically pleasing manner as I noticed in all the places we stayed. The restaurant, the bar, the ever present gift shop were all in the vicinity of the reception desk.
We had to use the washroom and for those who are seriously beginning to worry if they are going to be informed about my every sortie, panic not, for this will be the last 🙂
I mention this yet again, merely to relate an amusing incident. The gender indicators on the beautiful wooden doors were carved figures of a Masai male and female respectively and they were the most delightful indicators I have ever seen gracing the doors of a toilet.
The dark colored wood and the dim passage however, made critical features difficult to differentiate and for a heart stopping moment we found ourselves in locations that we were not supposed to be in!!! Luckily there was no damage done and we discovered the error before anyone came to know of it and we quickly switched places. Wait, did I just spill this to a whole bunch of you? 🙂
Our luggage was then taken down a grassy path to tent no.1 and tent no. 2, our home for two days. The tents are pretty comfortable, with a double bed, a desk, a cupboard and side tables and the usual tea/coffee sachets. The entrance though, is sealed by a mere zip and ‘zip up guys’ took on a less embarrassing meaning for the next 2 days 🙂
Speaking of tea and coffee, be aware that the water in the electric kettles has been filled yet again from the tap and here the tap water is faintly colored. So remember to discard this and refill with bottled water before consuming. Bottled water was provided in the room, half liter per head per day but we had carried our stocks from the vehicle and we had enough to spare.
We were told that our things would be completely safe despite remaining unlocked. Valuables though, could be deposited in the hotel safe. The toilet and bath area too were strangely minus a door and there was only a curtain between the room and our modesty, yikes … a point that I made sure to write about in the hotel feedback form 😀 Speaking of toilets, these are ‘waterless’ ones. Only toilet tissue is available. I specify this point because I know my Indian friends will be interested in this information. One more of life’s greatest mysteries has been … well I will not elaborate on that now but it’s at times like these, a story of a famous Indian dancer comes to mind, who once went abroad to perform on stage and just could not proceed thinking of the hundreds of unwashed bottoms in the audience 🙂 But I am not here to debate on people’s cleaning methods. The purpose of giving this information was merely to answer yet another question that some people were curious about.
The camp is protected from wild animals by means of a 24 hour electric fence and also a deep stream that runs across the front, hence we were not to fear on that account.
After depositing our belongings we zipped up or down in this case and left for the restaurant, where an excellent lunch awaited us. The food was always very good everywhere. Food related questions have been the highest among the queries I have received from my friends (see I pick my friends well) and so I will give that topic its due number of bytes (pun ?) .
When I was checking out the hotels on the net before travelling, I came across reviews from Americans and Europeans complaining that while the food was of very good quality, it was mostly Indian and that could get boring after a while. I was rather disappointed to read this, not because they found the food boring (everyone is entitled to their opinion) but because I like to try out different cuisines and I am not one of those who get off the plane and literally go hunting for Indian food, regardless of which country they may be touring. Don’t get me wrong, I love my Khana but I do like to experiment and savor the local cuisine for a change and since we do have no problems with non vegetarian food, we do quite well. Thus all this talk of Indian food did not enthuse me excessively. Reality was however, pleasantly otherwise.
From continental to the local African to Indian to a separate Indian vegetarian, there was something for every palate and I did not see any disappointed faces among the diners. Local African dishes made from local cereals and grains accompanied by healthy and delicious greens (I forget their various names), pasta, grills, roasts, Indian breads, other breads, rice, curries, gravies, baked casseroles, a live counter dishing out specialties, a salad counter featuring the best of the chef’s own kitchen garden … the list was vast and all encompassing. Tilapia, a popular local fish was ever present in various forms. We had heard stories of exotic meats being available but apart from a rare turkey (and I don’t refer to the state of doneness), there was only chicken, lamb, beef and pork . No crocodile or ostrich as we had heard. Was not sure whether to be disappointed or relieved 🙂
The dessert list is vast, with mousse and pastries and puddings and pies and other good things that are bad for you and of course the conscience salving fruit. Apart from the ubiquitous papaya or pawpaw, the watermelon, yellow melon and the pineapple, the passion fruit and tree tomato were common here and we got to savor them in various avatars.
Kenyan tea and coffee always had a presence on the table and very good they were too. So said K.
I am a non drinker of either, so think well before offering me a ‘coffee, tea or me ‘ 🙂
All meals are a part of the package and the drinks including water, are to be ordered separately.
After lunch v2 and I went about exploring the grounds. Activities available here include swimming, table tennis, (friendly) fishing, mini golf, archery and a dart board at the bar. Massage and beauty services are also available at the Tulia Wellness tent.
They also had a good collection of board games. Who plays board games on a safari? Well that question I will answer before this tale ends 😀
An American family was trying their hand with the bow and arrows and one of them was shooting bang on target. He offered to give v2 a little coaching and gave up after the arrows continuously fell within a mere 2 feet of the bow.
Muttering something about how India won the gold at the Olympics for shooting, I quickly evaporated from there 🙂
Anyway, after this disappointing show we went back to our tents to rest until our tryst with Newton at 4 pm for our very first safari game drive in the Masai Mara.
After having the tea/coffee and cake that were laid out on a most beautiful wooden table, we headed for the vehicle.
Newton drove us out into the grassland and thus began our very first African Safari. Greeted by a Marabou stork on an acacia tree (was this a tradition? :-), we went on to spot the majestic African elephants that didn’t seem to mind our presence, rather close to them.
The African, bigger than its Asian counterpart, with ears shaped like the continent that is its home, a feature that the creator of the universe designed in a moment of quirkiness, no doubt.
We had raised the top of our TLC to be able to stand & get the best views and shots and as a large tusker stared at me with an inscrutable expression, I bravely aimed and shot to obtain a picture that I captioned ‘up close & way too personal’!
Picture taken, I urged Newton to quickly get away from there but a smiling Newton refused to budge.
I realized many experiences later, that nothing made him want to stay longer, than my panicky voice pleading with him to move 🙂
Onto Mrs Simba and her friend, 2 lionesses that strolled about casually as if there were in their own backyard (were they not ?). Bearing marks of injury, they padded softly through the tall grasses, blending so well with its light color that it would have been hard for us to spot them without an expert. They did get pretty close to us however, enabling us to get the pictures we so greatly desired and after spending some time with them, we drove on.
The Savannah flatland stretches like a vast circle around us, rimmed along the distant periphery by low lying mountains. There we were, in our little cage amidst nature’s grand arena, with the animals all around us, making us feel very small and very vulnerable indeed. Little specks on a piece of land somewhere on this earth, an awesome feeling and a good time to feel really humble!!!
The grass is tall at this time of the year, having grown in anticipation of the migrating herds (hordes) that will come its way in the coming month. Thousands of wildebeest (gnus), nature’s lawn mowers, will then graze on this bounty until they strip the land bare before they return 3 months later back to where they came from and thus continue their unending cycle.
Due to the long grass it was hard to easily spot game. After migrating, the gnus would feast on the grass and the lions and leopards and hyenas would in turn feast on the gnus and we would be able to see the animals in abundance without the aid of a magnifying glass!!! A great time for everyone, except of course the gnus who get eaten 🙂
However we did manage a satisfactory tally of zebras, giraffes, warthogs and of course the gnus, impalas, elands, gazelles, topis, hartbeest, with Newton painstakingly explaining the differences between them and our untrained eyes trying to grab this visual feast and retain the memories.
A lone hyena with a collar was the only hyena we saw and he was the only animal that looked back at us with suspicion, the collar probably having something to do with how he felt about us.
We wanted to complete our tally of the big 5 – the lion, the elephant, the leopard, the buffalo and the rhino. Today we had the pleasure of meeting 2 of the above. We hoped the others would come our way in the near future.
We closed the evening drive with an awesome view of 2 male lions in all their glory, walking regally inches away from our window. Other cars had also gathered here and it was an amazing sight to see the 2 simbas walk unconcernedly in between the vehicles, not so much as throwing a glance in our direction. While I had closed all the glass, I was surprised to see one set of tourists in an open jeep, with meaty legs and hands within nipping distance from the jaws 🙂
I thought that was rather suicidal of them but this tale of nonchalance should serve to convince those who fear, that safaris are safe and that answers yet another question that has been frequently asked of me.
Speaking of other tourists, I must mention here that the guides have an excellent and very efficient system of communication and cooperation and are in radio contact with each other at all times. Their network helps them instantly alert the others and thus several cars in the vicinity can quickly make it to the location where game has been sighted, especially animals that are rare to find in this season. Thus most tourists get to see almost all the animals as the others get to see during the same game drive.
Likewise this system works out well in case of accidents or mishaps and as you will see, there were a few mishaps the next day.
As per the rules, game drives have to end by 6 pm and after witnessing a spectacular sunset on the Savannah, we were back at the camp by about 7 pm.
Newton left us for the night to his quarters after telling us to be ready by 6.30 am the next morning and of course wisely standing a safe distance away from me 🙂 Say what ???
Not compromising on the unearthly time, he told us we would have to get back in time for breakfast at 8.30 am, which we would miss if we left later. On hearing ‘breakfast’ and ‘miss’ in the same sentence, we quickly came to our senses and protested no more 🙂
Off to a wash and then onto dinner at 8.30 pm. Dinner being as interesting as lunch and topped by the chef and staff singing the birthday song for one of the guests, complete with a cake. Must remember to return in October 🙂
Kenyan coffee for K on the porch outside and off to the tent we went. In our absence the staff had sprayed insect repellent and switched on the electric mats. They had made our beds and cleaned up the room (could I take them back to Bangalore please? :-). They had also placed hot water bags under the sheets, which helped to warm the sheets albeit for a teensy weensy while.
No mosquito nets here though, only mats and repellent wipes. Not too many mosquitoes either, thought I saw just one. There were no adaptors either so we used the one we had for recharging all that we had to.
The entire place runs on a generator and hence the power is switched off every night between 12 am and 4 am. Torches and matches/candles are provided but we were so tired that once we hit the bed we did not even notice and we never got up till morning!!!
Continued at Kenya Day – 3
